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Storing Supers for the Season

If it was a good year, you pulled honey. Perhaps you pulled early summer, and the honey supers went back on the hive for refilling. Or maybe it wasn’t until the end of the season that you removed supers, and they weren’t entirely filled or capped.

What now?

I asked dozens of beekeepers what they do, hoping to find some “best practices” for particular geographic areas.  I got dozens of answers, and even the answers from beekeepers who were practically neighbors varied widely.

Supers Still Containing Something

We begin looking at filled or partially filled supers.

Why might you have those? Maybe you figured it wasn’t worth cranking up the extractor for just a few frames that were capped, or you’ve got frames with filled but uncapped cells and you suspect the honey isn’t ripe. Until fully processed by honey bees to the right moisture content, nectar (or unripe honey) contains excess water and natural yeasts which will allow it to ferment.

One beekeeper might freeze those; while another keeps them in airtight, pest-proof storage bins. Some might provide them to the bees in the spring, while others suggested putting them out on a sunny fall day for open feeding. If some of the honey is capped, you may want to scratch open the capping to expedite removal.

Preparing Empty Supers for the Off-Season


Beekeepers with honey supers

Many beekeepers choose to store their supers dry, meaning the bees have had a chance to clean them

The vast majority of our beekeepers prefer to store their empty supers “dry,” meaning the bees had time to clean off any remaining honey.

Many beekeepers clean up their supers by putting them back on the hive, preferably the hive from where they came. The super(s) are placed over the inner cover, under the top cover. This generally keeps bees from refilling them, unless they have no room elsewhere. If that’s the case, you might want to rethink pulling supers! Putting the supers back on the hive also keeps them dry and relatively guarded from marauding animals and other feeding insects.

Remember though, if you’re putting them back on the hive for clean-up, be sure that the bees aren’t yet in their winter cluster formation (cold climates) and have a couple of weeks to work them. (You can tell the supers are generally dry when there’s little activity in them (and it is still warm enough for bees to be on them).

Of course, opinions on this vary widely. Cleo Hogan, an experienced beekeeper in Kentucky and regular contributor to our newsletter noted that “I have never found it worthwhile to put a super above the inner cover for cleaning purposes. Better to sit them out in bright light and let the bees clean them up, then put them away. If you put them on the inner cover the bees will inevitably put some nectar in them.”

Storing Them Wet

Of course, we found a few beekeepers who choose to store their supers wet. They recommend

  • Enclosing them in heavy, black contractor plastic bags or
  • Storing them in big plastic totes or
  • Stacking them in an outdoor sheltered area (barn, lean-to, under a porch), sandwiched between two plastic outer covers

Storing Them At All?

In Southern climes, winter is generally measured in weeks. If a hive is strong, you could place the super(s) back on the hive. However, unless that hive can fend off beetles during these months of a dwindling bee population, you may want to minimize the hive interior and store the supers in a freezer or large plastic bags where beetles can’t get to them.

Other Insights

Kent from Wisconsin
Kent stores supers wet, in a shed built just for this purpose. “I like to keep Para-Moth in my storage facility to keep wax moths out as well as mice. I don’t need to use much but by keeping a low concentration year around, I never have problems. Unfortunately, this made everything in my honey house and workshop smell like moth crystals so I built a small building away from my honey house for the sole purpose of holding supers and brood chambers.

Paramoth treatment

Para-Moth Crystals moth preventative

I took a lot of care in making sure it was built as mouse and moth proof as possible, then added a cocoon of plastic to help contain the vapors and minimize the amount of Para-Moth I need to use.”

“I am considering putting the supers back on the hives to have the bees dry them out this year. Last year we had a visitation by Small Hive Beetles (SHB), which made me concerned about storing supers wet. We extract in August and warm weather can extend through early October. Winters kill off SHB in our area but I am concerned that if the right conditions occur, SHBs could do some damage before the cold arrives. Also, storing supers dry makes them easier to handle and maintain. In our area of Wisconsin, putting wet supers on hive doesn’t seem to help get the bees working. They use the supers when they need the room, wet or dry.”

Jim from Georgia:
“After extraction is over, we let the bees clean them up. In several days, after they’re cleaned, to the honey house they go. Any necessary repairs will be done at this time. I put one piece of plastic down, with three or four supers on it, then 12 or 15 moth balls on top of the frames. Then I’ll repeat the process, in that way I can stack them about 12 high. I do hives the same way. Then I put another piece of plastic top on it. In doing so, I have drawn comb ready for the next season.”


Jim added two really good insights:

  • He strives to keep the boxes in a good state of repair so they will sit tightly together
  • He unstacks his supers to air out about a week before he puts them on the hives

Taylor from Northern New York:
Taylor stores dry supers, starting after Labor Day, in his unheated garage. He admits he’s had wax moth damage over the years, but doesn’t think that the moths have critical numbers before they’re zapped by the cold of November. He noted that the supers are generally dry, so there isn’t much for the moths to live on anyway. (Mice, he admits, are an entirely different pest, so he surrounds the stacked-on-newspaper supers with traps.)

Sid from Michigan:
Beekeeper Sid shared: “Our cleaned supers are stacked inside, with moth crystals placed inside each stack, and with a top cover on top of each stack.”

Allen from Illinois, just north of Chicago:
Beekeeper Allen says: “After extracting, I put the supers out as far from the hives on my half-acre property as I can where the neighbors still can’t see the feeding frenzy, and let the bees clean.

After a few days, when there is no more activity around the supers, I bring them in the house to spend a day or two in the freezer. My freezer is an upright with food in it, and there is only one shelf available to hold a shallow super, so they have to go in one at a time. Tedious and messy, but I learned the hard way that this is necessary before storing the supers at room temperature in a walk-in closet in the house. The supers remain in the closet (no wax moths if they have been frozen) until being taken out for next year’s surplus.”

Allen then made a great point about asking for advice. He said, “It is true that I have been keeping bees for 35 years, but I may not really have 35 years of experience, just one year of experience 35 times.”



7 comments on “Storing Supers for the Season
  1. Frank Williams says:

    I am in Northeast Arkansas and after the bees clean the supers I place them in a chest freezer for 72 hrs and place each super in a unscented white garbage bag and tape it closed and then store in my shop. So far this has worked well.

  2. Jonne B. Walter says:

    I have heard I should not use moth balls on the wax frames, rather dichlorobenzene
    As the brand “Para-Moth. The container gives no directions on how much to use,
    and the warnings are pretty scarey . Any one with experience or suggestions please advise.
    Jonne B

  3. Loren Miller says:

    This year, I’m storing my supers in alternating directions in my garage, so they are well ventilated. I have rope lighting running through the stacks. I also have a LED shop light directly above. This hopefully will work repelling with light, and without paramoth. Once winter sets in, I’ll turn the lights off. It should work better than my stacks closed off, and sealed with duct tape last year…they were destroyed (I froze the frames, and the moths still found a way in).

  4. bija says:

    I had a hive die, brought it onto the porch – 20 frames in various states: fully capped honey, to uncapped wet..probably SYRUP? Its January and too cold to put back on the hive – I could rotate through my freezer, but then I still have frames uncapped w some kind of nectar or syrup. THOSE are the questions how to store til spring!

  5. John from Kidlington says:

    We have put the supers back above the crown board but we were a bit late (4 days) and they
    Had begun to fill the frames with a bit of nectar and now the bees wont leave so we are unable to store the frames: what do we do now? Kidlington man UK


  6. Randose in Snowville VA says:

    It seems to me, if we kill the larvae of the wax moths we solve the problem. Using the nasty chemicals in mothballs is unappealing to me around food. I would prefer an organic solution. Freezing of course is a great way to get your equipment to zero moths for a time, then your only concern is a reinfestation before lasting cold weather sets in. After the bees have cleaned up your frames and you have frozen them for at least 48 hours, why not treat them with an organic product which kills larvae? My plan this year is to mist all the waxy surfaces with a solution of water and BT (Bacillus Thuringeriensis sp?) before stacking them in the barn. It is a live natural bacteria that is totally safe for humans to eat and imparts no flavor. But When caterpillar larvae eat anything that has BT on it, it disrupts their digestion and shortly thereafter they die. There are different strains and even one which markets itself specifically for wax moth larvae. But the manufacturer of the brand/strain I keep to treat my collards and Kale against cabbage moths told me they believe it will work just fine on wax moth larvae also. The purpose would be to protect the wax between When I take them out of the freezer and before the lasting freezing weather sets in. I hope this idea helps.

  7. Vaidas says:

    I only store dry frames (clean in hives, bees also repair combs this way), no bread or honey in them.
    Frames are placed in a reasonably tightly closed wooden box (not sealed, nor air tight). For supers, it is an equivalent of placing a piece of plywood between each layer.
    Boxes are then stored in a well ventilated shed.
    There has never been a problem (7 years) with wax moths or mice. Even though I have some frames stored nearly all year round.
    The secret ingredient – vinegar (standard, edible, 9%) sprayed on top of frames (inside box) for wax moths and then some around the boxes for the mice. Do not spray into the combs intentionally, only on the top of the frames.

    This year I had a few donated supers, which I intended to melt in autumn, with the rest of old wax, but they all went to increase population of wax moths… but still not a single moth in my own boxes, few feet away.

2 Pings/Trackbacks for "Storing Supers for the Season"
  1. […] Frames of honey that are stored over Winter should be capped.  Uncapped honey is okay in the freezer but the honey may ooze out before it freezes and then you have a big old mess.  Don’t ask me how I know this. […]

  2. […] is the time to make sure that your unused beekeeping equipment is properly stored for winter and to start working on any repairs needed to your beekeeping […]

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Kelley Beekeeping: Maintenance Mode
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